Formula II Caddis
In the biological word, the figure F denotes generations where and F1 is a genetically wild specimen, F2 is the second generation from an F1. In this case, this pattern is the second generation of patterns derived from earlier designs that I have been tying. Rather than naming it the F2 caddis, I thought Formula II would lend a better ear feel.
Hook: Firehole Stick 320 #10-16.
Bead: Black nickel tungsten.
Thread: Veevus 50D GSP white.
Abdomen: Frosty dubbing pale green.
Rib: Hends Pearl Round Tinsel PB34.
Abdominal shellback: Hends shellback #34.
Thorax: Hends Spectra dubbing #335.
Thoracic shellback: Black swiss straw (Treated with flexement prior to tying).
Wing buds: Black swiss straw (Treated with flexement prior to tying).
Legs: Dyed tan speckled Brahma Hen Saddle.
UV Resin: Solarez.
Hends: Spectra Dubbing #335, Pearl Round Tinsel #34, Shellback #34.
Hemingway's Frosty Dubbing
River Road Creations Czech Nymph Cutter and Swiss Straw treated with a thined coating of fleximent or Shoe Goo.
Step 1: With a bead already in place, begin by attaching the tying thread and neatly tying down the ribbing to halfway around the bend of the hook.
Step 2: Begin to tightly dub a teardrop shaped thorax. Keeping the dubbing very tight will be crucial for the success of future steps.
Step 3: The thorax should have a teardrop shape like this.
Step 4: Wrap the ribbing forward in 6-7 turns. Here the tight dubbing prevents the ribbing from sinking too far into the abdomen.
Step 5: Tie off the ribbing mid shank.
Step 6: Using the Czech Nymph cutting tool that is one size larger than you will use for the wing buds. Cut a length of Shellback and attach at the top of the hook, shiny side up as we want the dull side to face out and the tag end facing forward. I also attached the shellback using the rounded end leaving the narrow end as the tag.
Step 7: Advance the thread rearward as you would wrap a counter rib. Each thread wrap rearward should match the width of the corresponding tinsel rib.
Step 8: After the first wrap rearward with the tying thread, pull the shellback rearward and take a single thread wrap to secure it to the top of the abdomen. Use enough thread tension to compress the shellback into the dubbing to create a segment.
Step 9: Pull the shellback forward to make room for one more counter thread warp rearward. Again, matching the same width as the corresponding tinsel rib.
Step 10: Tie the second abdominal section using the same sequnce as in steps 7-9.
Step 11: Continue this sequence advancing rearward making 5-6 abdominal sections. The shape will follow the shape of the abdomen that we had previously dubbed. It is wise to create a very tightly dubbed abdomen with a slightly exaggerated shape.
Step 12: Whip finish the thread at the rear of the fly. By pulling firmly on the thread upwards and forwards, against the grain of the wraps, you can compress your whip finish knot even further. Trim the tag and of the shellback and thread close and cleanly.
Step 13: Using the next size smaller Czech cutting tool, cut three pieces of the Swiss straw for the wing buds and thorax. Tie in one of the swiss straw section on the top of the kook, by the rounded end with the tag end facing rearward.
Step 14: Tightly dub the thorax with the spectra dubbing.
Step 15: Pull about a dozen or so strands of the spectra dubbing and tie in as a beard underneath the thorax; this will be legs. You can pinch off extra fibers and groom to shape.
Step 16: Groom the beard of Spectra dubbing as illustrated.
Step 17: Attach the wing buds along the sides of the thorax so that the extend half the length of the abdomen and cover the bottom half of the thorax.
Step 18: Illustrates the correct placement of the wing buds. Zoom in for better detail.
Step 19: Select a Brahma hen saddle feather and trim out a V section at the tip. Pull about 6-8 of the fibers forward on each side. Place on the top of the thorax and measure for length. I like to have the tips extend to the tip of the posterior abdomen.
Step 20: Using your other hand, carefully pinch both sides of the feather barbs to the sides of the thorax. Using the pinch wrap method, make two to three very careful thread wraps to secure the feather barbs securely.
Step 21: Illustrates the proper placement of the tie in. When you are satisfied with everything, trim away the butts of the feather being careful not to disturb your placement.
Step 22: Dubbing a very small collar conceals the butts of the hen feather and to helps to position the fibers.
Step 23: Pull the dorsal covering forward being careful to keep it in an open flat shape. With your opposite thumb, hold the swiss straw flat along the top so that when you take your securing thread wraps, you do not scrunch or bind the material up.
Step 24: Trim away the tag end of dorsal cover neatly. Color the thread with a waterproof marker. I like to use brown for this pattern. Whip finish and cut away thread.
Step 25: Apply a small bead of UV resin on the dorsal cover and torch it with a UV lamp. Stick it your fly box and dream of the day you hook up on a fat pig while using it.